Sartorial Steppin' Up

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Jake
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Sartorial Steppin' Up

Post by Jake » 24 Feb 2018, 13:36

So now that I'm thinner, I need a whole new wardrobe. I figure there's no better time to improve my personal sense of style beyond my standard "well, this t-shirt is clean, so I'll wear that!" Unfortunately, the Queer Eye guys haven't returned my calls, so I'm sort of lost in the woods here. Luckily, some of you people are way more stylish than I am, so here I am!

What should I be looking for? (Assume I've never learned anything about clothes in my life.)
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dhex
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Re: Sartorial Steppin' Up

Post by dhex » 24 Feb 2018, 14:04

you kinda look like me but you have hair, and you're pnw, so you can do jeans and flannel shirts 8 months out of the year and be just fine. works with a wide range of decent to good shoes, and with boots or flats or sneakers or whatever you wanna do. even flip flops if you are a monster in human skin.
"I do wear my New Balance tennis shoes when I'm wearing cargo shorts, though, because truth in advertising." - lunch

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Jasper
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Re: Sartorial Steppin' Up

Post by Jasper » 26 Feb 2018, 13:24

So you weren't taking my Viking wardrobe comment seriously? Hmph.
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JasonL
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Re: Sartorial Steppin' Up

Post by JasonL » 26 Feb 2018, 15:51

Ok. So I believe in a casual dude base built around mid colored denim and darker denim. Darker denim is nicer looking and can be worn out to dinner and such in casual situations. Get a few well fitting button up shirts in casual prints - things that look like flannel stripes and checks, and go untucked with darker denim. An untucked shirt should not hang below say the mid point of your rear pocket ideally. I can't emphasize fit enough. There are various places that do online custom shirts at various price points. I use Blank Label and I'd rate them B+ to B. They are 3 shirts for $250. Proper Cloth has a lot more selection and nicer materials but are more expensive than that. Indochino is a great place to start at a lower price point. Point is, get shirts that fit. It's more important to the look than anything else about the shirt. One of these shirts should be button collar oxford in white, gray or maybe light blue - but really white or gray.

If you aren't doing tailored, do something like Untuckit. https://www.untuckit.com/

I'm wearing this shirt right now for a sense:

https://www.blanklabel.com/shirts/casual/1436

Light and mid denim is very casual and is best suited for tees and layering over tees.

If you are the sort who wears gym shoes everywhere, stop doing that. Lots of choices - chukka boots, slip ons, or styled sneakers like Vans are all upgrades over bright big rubber soled things that are clearly for running or being at the gym. Brown with denim. Black with khaki.

After your denim you can change it up with chinos in various colors. Chinos are cotton not wool, do not get pleats in the front and do not cuff the leg. Especially these days, can again go untucked just fine.

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Jadagul
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Re: Sartorial Steppin' Up

Post by Jadagul » 26 Feb 2018, 16:26

For made to measure stuff I'll also throw in a pitch for makeyourownjeans.com (which also does shirts and suits). The quality on the suits is mediocre, but the shirts and jeans are great and it's really cheap--jeans are about 60/pair, and the shirts run as low as 35.

I'm a big fan of having one well-made well-fitting casual sport coat to wear over everything. But I know that doesn't always work for everyone.

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Ellie
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Re: Sartorial Steppin' Up

Post by Ellie » 26 Feb 2018, 16:27

And of course you need a tuxedo.

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lunchstealer
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Re: Sartorial Steppin' Up

Post by lunchstealer » 26 Feb 2018, 20:30

JasonL wrote:
26 Feb 2018, 15:51
If you are the sort who wears gym shoes everywhere, stop doing that. Lots of choices - chukka boots, slip ons, or styled sneakers like Vans are all upgrades over bright big rubber soled things that are clearly for running or being at the gym. Brown with denim. Black with khaki.
Shoes make a bigger difference in perception than I'd have thought.

I've got a nubuck version of these, and they're un-showy-enough that a 40-something doesn't look like they're trying too hard, but they're still threading the needle between too-stuffy and ugly dad shoes. I do wear my New Balance tennis shoes when I'm wearing cargo shorts, though, because truth in advertising.

https://www.shoes.com/converse-pro-leat ... one-_-none
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Highway
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Re: Sartorial Steppin' Up

Post by Highway » 26 Feb 2018, 20:41

I have a couple pairs of New Balance MW813s, one in black, one in brown, that I use for work. I go the opposite way of JasonL, tho, and have the shoes match / complement the pants, so black for black / gray / navy and brown for tan / brown / khaki. But I'm an unfashionable engineer anyway.
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JasonL
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Re: Sartorial Steppin' Up

Post by JasonL » 27 Feb 2018, 10:08

Nobody should ever wear cargo shorts outside of their home / lawn / maybe a beach vacation. See also flip flops and crocs.

I like the adidas Stan Smith for leather type casual sneakers and I also usually have either a pair of canvas Sperry's or canvas low top sneakers like ... uh, whatchacallit ... not Converse, maybe those italian things I had a while ago Superga?

I think I had these:


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dhex
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Re: Sartorial Steppin' Up

Post by dhex » 27 Feb 2018, 10:08

so i'll deviate on the shirt front with jason because he is a small fellow. 83 bucks per shirt is too much to get going on. once you know what your deal is in terms of fit and size and preferences, it's a good deal if the shirt quality is good and you know what you need to buy.

so the easiest way to start would be:

1) thrift stores. if you are near an area with a lot of yachtzi party type retirees, you can find good stuff in a variety of sizes. so you can road test a manufacturer for a few bucks. this may actually be the best choice depending on what your area selection is like. some are gonna have great stuff and some are gonna have trash. finding talls is going to be a pain in the butt most of the time regardless, retail, thrift or otherwise.

you can also find sport coats, odd ties, cufflinks, etc...

2) go to an outlet mall with a brooks brothers.
(in b4 dar, it's not a real brooks brothers, and bb is not what it used to be anyway)

ok well google tells me the closest ones are in WA so anyway, if that works, the reason i'd suggest it is:

1) it's better than what you'd find in most department stores or, god protect us, a van heusen.
2) if you pick the right sale you can get shirts in the 30-40 buck range that are perfectly useable.
3) this isn't for suits (i assume?) so you don't need plain light blue or light pink solids. which is great because they fucking love (what i feel are) weird plaids and patterns.
4) they will have larger sizes and tend to run too large, which means you'll have some flexibility in sizing.

3) i've had a lot of luck with charles tyrwitt. if you wait for actual sales, you can find shirts that are well made for 30-40 bucks a la: https://www.ctshirts.com/us/clearance-s ... rts-Casual
"I do wear my New Balance tennis shoes when I'm wearing cargo shorts, though, because truth in advertising." - lunch

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JasonL
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Re: Sartorial Steppin' Up

Post by JasonL » 27 Feb 2018, 10:14

I second C-T if it fits. You need to find the thing that fits though if not doing tailoring.

My shoulder to arm length ratio makes off the rack very difficult. To fit shoulders I get hugely oversized shirts. A lot of people like The Tie Bar, but I haven't done it. J Crew basics are good basics. But, again, J Crew tends to run about $65-$70 each. Same with something like Banana Republic.

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dhex
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Re: Sartorial Steppin' Up

Post by dhex » 27 Feb 2018, 10:55

arm lengths are my hell. i need 37-38 inches.*

* that's what she said**
** she was a humpback whale
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Andrew
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Re: Sartorial Steppin' Up

Post by Andrew » 27 Feb 2018, 10:59

Today I learned I'm a trash person.

And yeah, weird proportions make off the rack impossible. Apparently, tall guys with a narrow waist and gangly arms are not permitted to have shoulders.

Edit: I need 36/37, and I'm only 6'2.
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Jasper
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Re: Sartorial Steppin' Up

Post by Jasper » 27 Feb 2018, 13:02

Don't listen to these metrosexuals Jake.

Wool leggings, linen shirt, wool vest, and a chain- or scale hauberk.

Legendary.
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lunchstealer
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Re: Sartorial Steppin' Up

Post by lunchstealer » 27 Feb 2018, 13:20

dhex wrote:
27 Feb 2018, 10:55

** she was a humpback whale
*** that's what he said
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Painboy
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Re: Sartorial Steppin' Up

Post by Painboy » 27 Feb 2018, 13:46

Andrew wrote:
27 Feb 2018, 10:59
Today I learned I'm a trash person.

And yeah, weird proportions make off the rack impossible. Apparently, tall guys with a narrow waist and gangly arms are not permitted to have shoulders.

Edit: I need 36/37, and I'm only 6'2.
This is why I always roll my sleeves up. My shoulders are made for someone 2" taller. So XL is sleeves too long and L is sleeves a little too short.

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lunchstealer
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Re: Sartorial Steppin' Up

Post by lunchstealer » 27 Feb 2018, 13:58

JasonL wrote:
27 Feb 2018, 10:08
Nobody should ever wear cargo shorts outside of their home / lawn / maybe a beach vacation. See also flip flops and crocs.
There is no way that cargo shorts are on the same level as crocs. No way no how.

Crocs are hideous abominations that kids-party-clowns turn their noses up at. They're People of Walmart shit.

Cargo shorts are just the dad jeans of summer. They're a step up from jean shorts, and jean shorts aren't even crocs. The equivalent of cargo shorts are white New-Balance/Adidas/etc athletic shoes or maybe birkenstocks. Tevas are a still two floors - not steps, floors - up from crocs.
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lunchstealer
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Re: Sartorial Steppin' Up

Post by lunchstealer » 27 Feb 2018, 14:11

Painboy wrote:
27 Feb 2018, 13:46
Andrew wrote:
27 Feb 2018, 10:59
Today I learned I'm a trash person.

And yeah, weird proportions make off the rack impossible. Apparently, tall guys with a narrow waist and gangly arms are not permitted to have shoulders.

Edit: I need 36/37, and I'm only 6'2.
This is why I always roll my sleeves up. My shoulders are made for someone 2" taller. So XL is sleeves too long and L is sleeves a little too short.
I do it the other way. I roll up my sleeves because I rarely have a shirt that's really and truly long enough. Although since I developed a serious belly in the past three-ish years, shirts that are big enough around the waist are often too long in the arms, which is a weird experience for a guy who finished his last growth spurt at 6'3"/155lbs. I didn't stay there, and was closer to 185 at the end of grad school, but I never got out of that mentality until I hit my mid 30s.
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"We can't confirm rumors that Lynndie England is in the running to be Gina Haspel's personal aide." - DAR

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Warren
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Re: Sartorial Steppin' Up

Post by Warren » 27 Feb 2018, 14:12

lunchstealer wrote:
27 Feb 2018, 13:58
Cargo shorts are just the dad jeans of summer.
Second

Flip flops are shower shoes. You wear them in communal showers to prevent foot fungus and nowhere else. No, not even at the beach. Sand will grind foam flip flops to dust in hours.
Sandals are another matter. Sandals may be of any quality and can be perfectly acceptable summer day ware.
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lunchstealer
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Re: Sartorial Steppin' Up

Post by lunchstealer » 27 Feb 2018, 14:35

Warren wrote:
27 Feb 2018, 14:12
lunchstealer wrote:
27 Feb 2018, 13:58
Cargo shorts are just the dad jeans of summer.
Second

Flip flops are shower shoes. You wear them in communal showers to prevent foot fungus and nowhere else. No, not even at the beach. Sand will grind foam flip flops to dust in hours.
Sandals are another matter. Sandals may be of any quality and can be perfectly acceptable summer day ware.
I think if there is a grill involved and the flip flops are not foam, you're okay-ish, and poolside/dockside. There are cases where the pool deck in direct July sun is simply too hot for bare feet. Flipflops are a way to get to anywhere where at your destination you want bare feet and those feet may be wet. I think for grilling, though, the flip flops should be high end, and can probably just be called thong sandals. Something like this:

https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/87339?f ... ark%20Java
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D.A. Ridgely
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Re: Sartorial Steppin' Up

Post by D.A. Ridgely » 27 Feb 2018, 15:32

First, what is your objective in building a new wardrobe? Other than, obviously, needing new clothes.

Second, I represent the British, preppy, loosely fitting conservative, anti-Italian end of the spectrum here. Big and tall guys may need big and tall clothes, but I entirely reject the notion that one must have bespoke shirts, and while it's certainly possible for big or tall guys to spend enough money to look good in Continental tailoring, British tailoring is much more forgiving and comfortable.

Following up to dhex's preemptive observation, nothing is what it used to be but Lands End still sells Hyde Park oxford cloth shirts with button down collars at a reasonable price and they last forever. Like authentic Brooks Bros "Maker" shirts, they will fit loosely. They're supposed to. One white and one, contra Jason, light blue. A striped or checked shirt, too, if they're available. (I'm partial to tattersal.) If they don't fit, send them back and adjust your order size accordingly. Your shirt collar size should be big enough for you to be able to stick a couple of fingers between the shirt and your neck because if you ever actually have to wear a tie for some reason, you don't want it choking you for hours. A few solid color polo shirts -- you can decide for yourself how snobbish a little emblem you're willing to pay for -- and that's basic shirting.

Khakis or jeans for everything casual, dark gray medium weight wool slacks for dressier occasions. The latter with a navy blazer for most of the year and a Harris tweed jacket for cold weather works in just about every imaginable occasion short of formal evening wear.

Whatever sort of athletic shoe you like is fine; just avoid the gaudy colored models. One pair of black or brown oxford lace up shoes, the sort places like "The Walking Store" sell. (Dockers makes light and comfortable but dressy shoes, too.) Just don't wear white socks with anything other than your athletic shoes.

I could elaborate for suits, outerwear, etc., but that's the backbone of the more "trad" or 'Ivy League' style clothes I prefer. To each his own.

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JasonL
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Re: Sartorial Steppin' Up

Post by JasonL » 27 Feb 2018, 15:53

I’m unopposed to the light blue shirt. It’s a staple. I was just remarking that for the Oxford and for untucked jeans wear white and grey are to me the choice if only doing one Oxford. If wearing dressier Oxford to be tucked with wool pants light blue is my preferred option.

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Warren
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Re: Sartorial Steppin' Up

Post by Warren » 27 Feb 2018, 16:11

lunchstealer wrote:
27 Feb 2018, 14:35
There are cases where the pool deck in direct July sun is simply too hot for bare feet. Flipflops are a way to get to anywhere where at your destination you want bare feet and those feet may be wet.
Fair enough. My intention was to draw a hard line between foam flip flops and sandals.

When it comes to grilling, I'm old school. Charcoal and open toes are risky.
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Mo
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Re: Sartorial Steppin' Up

Post by Mo » 27 Feb 2018, 16:14

Stay the fuck away from my Rainbows, bitches.
Last edited by Mo on 27 Feb 2018, 16:16, edited 1 time in total.
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JasonL
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Re: Sartorial Steppin' Up

Post by JasonL » 27 Feb 2018, 16:16

I have Keens I wear on the patio. I’m much less opposed to sandals. They are far superior to flip flops or crocs in most incarnations. However... and this is for the ladies, just because you took a bedazzler to you flip flops doesn’t mean they are fancy.

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